Spend it once

Gear for a used bike

The motorcycle is allowed to be older. Your helmet, your tires, and your brakes are not the line items that prove you are thrifty. Everything else is a tradeoff between a Concours-class sport-tourer and a slightly older GS, GSA, or Africa Twin.

What is worth buying used

Depreciation is the point of this site. Apply it where a failure is annoying, not where it is final.

  • The bike. A used Concours 14, FJR1300, ST1300, R1200GS, GSA, or CRF1000L is the correct place to save. You are buying someone else’s depreciation. You are also buying their deferred maintenance unless the records say otherwise. A cheap asking price with bald tires and unknown brake fluid is a repair bill wearing a low number.
  • Hard luggage, if you can inspect it. Many Concours 14s, and plenty of ST1300s, already have hard cases. Latches should close without a prayer, seals should still meet, and the mounts should not be cracked or bodged. Used cases that fit the bike are one of the few used accessories that pay you back on the first wet day. A GS rack is not a Concours rack. Make the seller show it mounted.
  • Soft bags, tank bags, stands, and ordinary tools. Scuffs are fine. Broken buckles, unknown mounting hardware, and a tank bag that sands the paint are not. Dry-fit anything that touches paint before a trip.
  • A jacket or boots, sometimes. Textile that still has its armor, zippers that close, and boots that fit your actual feet can be a fair used buy. If the armor is missing, the membrane is delaminating, or the sole is slick, walk away. Leather with a crash story is a maybe for the track and a no for a week of weather.

What not to cheap out on

Three things. They are boring. They are the whole safety case for riding an older motorcycle.

  • Helmet, bought new. A current certification from a maker you can look up, in a shell that fits your head rather than the sale sticker. Used helmets are out. Drops are invisible, foam ages, and a classifieds photo cannot show either one. This is true on a Concours and on an XRV750. The bike’s bargain does not transfer to your skull.
  • Tires, matched to the bike and the route. The Concours, the FJR, and the ST want sport-touring tires: pavement grip, wet manners, and a carcass that stays settled with luggage. An R1200GS or GSA wants a tire honest about how much dirt is in the week. A street-biased adventure tire is right if gravel is occasional. A more aggressive tread is right if the connector is the point, and it will feel busier on the highway. The CRF1000L, Tiger 800, and those older KTMs follow the same rule. Read the date code on the sidewall. A “new” tire that aged in a shed is not new. Take-offs from a stranger are a gamble with your contact patch.
  • Brakes: fluid, pads, and a look at the lines. Older bikes sit. Brake fluid collects moisture whether or not the ad mentions it. If you do not know how old the fluid is, replace it before a mountain week. Buy decent pads, not the listing with no name. Look at the lines, the rotors, and whether the lever or pedal feels soft once the bike is hot. This is the same job on a shaft-drive sport-tourer and on a chain-drive Africa Twin. It is not where a budget trip should get creative.

Luggage

Hard cases and soft bags solve different problems. The bike you bought already hints at which one you need.

Concours, FJR, ST

Hard panniers

They lock, they shrug off rain, and they do not sway. On a used Concours they are often already paid for. The costs are real: they are wide in a crosswind and in a tight lane, they hurt more in a tip-over, and a cracked mount is a structural problem, not a cosmetic one. Pack weight low and forward. A top case catches more wind than it looks like it will.

GS, GSA, Africa Twin

Soft bags, or hard cases you can afford to drop

Aluminum cases on a GSA are a classic setup and a wide one. They are excellent until the bike lies down, and then they are a lever. Soft bags crush, shift a little, and usually cost less to repair after a drop. On a CRF1000L or a Tiger 800 that will see real dirt, soft luggage is the calmer budget choice. Waterproof liners matter more than the brand on the strap.

How the bikes ask you to ride

Gear follows the riding position. Do not buy adventure armor for a bike that never leaves the pavement, or a race suit for a GS.

A Concours 14, an FJR, or an ST puts you in the fairing. Wind hits the shield first. Your wrists are busier than they would be on a touring chair, and quieter than they would be on the superbike the Concours’s engine remembers. You want gloves you can wear for hours, a jacket that seals at the neck, and boots with enough ankle that a parking-lot drop does not end the trip. You do not need a motocross chest protector.

An R1200GS, a GSA, or a CRF1000L sits you tall. You can see over the rise. You also get weather in the torso unless you add a screen and dress for it. Standing on the pegs, even briefly, is part of a rough connector, so the boots need a real sole and the pants need room at the knee. The XRV750 and the Tiger 800 are the same idea with less highway wind protection. If you will stand up, your gear has to allow it.

Layers

One expensive shell that is wrong for the afternoon is a worse budget than three boring layers that fit in a case.

Start with a textile jacket that fits over a mid-layer and still has its armor in the elbows, shoulders, and back. A base layer you can ride in when the morning is cold. A rain shell that lives in the case, not at home, because the Pacific and the Appalachians both change their minds. A cheap rain suit that you actually packed beats a premium jacket that soaks through at the seams.

Heated grips or a heated vest are a comfort, not an entry fee. On a used Concours, check whether the grips already work before you buy a new kit. In the desert, the same system is irrelevant and the problem is heat: a vented layer, water, and the sense to stop. Cotton against the skin is a poor plan in either extreme.

The cheap setup is a phone. The failure mode is a phone. Carry a backup where the map matters.

A sturdy mount and offline maps will do more for a budget trip than a dedicated GPS you do not practice with. The mount is not the place to save a few dollars. A phone that leaves the bars at highway speed is gone, and so is the route. Gloves have to work the screen, or you need a plan that does not require poking at it in the lane.

Charge from the bike if the bike’s outlet is trustworthy, and know whether a used Concours or an older GS actually has one that works. In the desert, and in the mountains, cell service is a rumor. A paper map in the tank bag is the backup that does not need a battery. It also does not care which generation of GS you bought.

Shaft, chain, and the other costs

The purchase price is not the year of riding.

The Concours 14, the FJR1300, the ST1300, and the boxer GS and GSA are shaft-drive bikes. You do not adjust a chain every few fuel stops. You do look for final-drive leaks, and on an older GS you ask, out loud, when that service was last done. The CRF1000L, the XRV750, the Tiger 800, and the KTM 1090 and 1190 are chain bikes. Dust, rain, and a cheap oiler are part of owning them. Budget the lube, the cleaner, and a sprocket set when the teeth hook. That is the honest cost of a lighter, dirt-willing used ADV.

Fork oil, brake fluid, and tires come due on all of them. A sorted used bike is cheaper than a new flagship. A neglected used bike is a project with a headlight. If you want the project, buy the XRV and enjoy it with your eyes open. If you want to leave on a Thursday, buy the Concours or the GS that already has receipts.